Last Thursday we attended the Great Chefs dinner at Manresa with Chef Josiah Citrin from Melisse in Santa Monica. We had reservations for Picasso in Las Vegas on Monday and I didn’t know if we wanted to spend that much on dinner twice in one week. We decided to go and we weren’t disappointed.
They were serving canapés for the first half hour or so. We munched on them and drank some champagne while we waited for everyone to show up. There were three canapés that we sampled: a taro chip (kind of like a potato chip but better. I remember eating them as part of other dishes at Manresa), an olive-based pastry, and a corn-based treat. The corn item was the best.
After the canapés they served an amuse-bouche featuring a fried chickpea stick. It was kind of like eating falafel but with a more interesting sauce. There was something else with the chickpea, but I don’t remember what it was.
The first course was tomato soup, but not just any tomato soup. They brought out a bowl and in the center was tomato sorbet and some diced vegetables. Then they poured hot tomato soup around the sorbet. Essentially you had an island of cold tomato surrounded by a sea of hot tomato. It was fantastic. The flavors were great and the hot and freezing items together in one bowl was great.
Next up was a scallop dish. The scallops were cooked perfectly and the sauce was very good. Unfortunately, I kept comparing this dish to the scallops I had at Picasso earlier in the week, and these weren’t quite as good. If it had been a month or two since I had eaten this caliber of food, I would have said that these scallops were wonderful. Note to self: Don’t eat at five-star restaurants with world-class chefs more often than once per month.
Course number three was monkfish in saffron sauce and a baked clam. The monkfish flavor was a little strong (some people really like that) but it was good. The baked clam was great. It had a pesto type crust that matched well with the clam. I could eat a whole bowl of just those clams.
After the monkfish and clams, they served squab. It was very good, and my second-favorite dish of the evening behind the tomato soup. After the squab they served an apricot sorbet followed by a chocolate dessert. Both were very good.
The only downside to the evening was that there was a 30-minute wait between each course. Normally reservations are spread out over the evening so they can get a steady flow going in the kitchen. On Thursday they were serving the entire restaurant at once so they had to complete on course before moving on to the next.
Manresa’s chef David Kinch stopped by several tables after the dinner was completed and talked to various patrons. We talked with him for about 10 minutes or so. We talked about his tasting menu – I like the fact that he doesn’t print a menu for it and it’s basically secret. He told us that sometimes the tasting menu varies from table to table on the same night. He also agrees with me that not getting the wine pairings with dinner is stupid. See my rant at the end of for details.
David Kinch will be going down to Santa Monica’s Melisse to do the same kind of guest chef dinner for Josiah Citrin. It sounded like some of the guests were going to make a road trip down south to give it a try. He also plans to bring in a chef from Vancouver in October for another Great Chefs dinner. We may have to go back for that one.




